Have you tried everything in Nha Trang?

Grilled pork skewers rolled in rice paper with star fruit and peanut-hoisin sauce, roadside north of town.

Tiny clay-mold pancakes hit with fish sauce cut with shredded green mango - sweet, sour, salty, spicy in one bite.

Raw roe mixed with quail egg and crushed peanuts, eaten straight from the shell - even locals argue over this one.

Simmered in coconut milk and lemongrass, dipped in chili-salt-lime - a late-night ritual, not a dinner course.

String yourself between poles at a ca phe vong with an iced coffee while the midday heat peaks.

The round-roofed market sells the freshest seafood hours before it ever reaches a menu.

Locals go up Long Son's hillside for the sea breeze as much as the view, a real break from the humidity.

Dishes land communal in the center - chopsticks stay down until the oldest person at the table starts.

Bargaining at markets is expected and enjoyed - raising your voice or storming off just kills the fun.

"Cam on" (gam un) means thank you - use it after every purchase, even a 20-cent sugarcane juice.

Informal nets go up on Tran Phu Beach at sunrise and sunset - just ask, locals wave you in.

Locals string nets under flyovers and in parking lots at dawn, playing a round before the workday starts.