Have you tried everything in Phnom Penh?

Cambodia's bone-broth answer to pho, eaten standing at a stall for under $2.50.

Colonial baguette stuffed with pâté, sardines and pickles, wolfed down on the way to work.

Kuy teav and nom banh chok in the food ring under Psar Thmei's 1937 yellow dome, packed by 8 AM.

Press your palms to nose height for elders, forehead height only for monks — Khmers notice the effort.

Climb Wat Phnom at 5:30 AM and leave flowers among monks and monkeys before the ticket booth opens.

Step around picnic blankets and impromptu aerobics classes under the temple's golden spires.

A smiling 'yes' that leads nowhere means no — never push, never raise your voice to save face.

Pronounced soo-ah SDEY, the one hello that opens every stall, tuk-tuk, and temple gate.

Sit under string lights near Street 51 with a $0.75 mug of Angkor Beer and a sequined pop band.

Duck through Psar Toul Tom Poung's narrow, sweaty aisles where locals actually shop, not just tourists.

Watch vendors juggle two currencies mid-sale and ask for a riel price for the local-friendly rate.