Have you tried everything in Thimphu?

Grab a Nu 100-200 plate from a cart near the weekend market and dip in fiery tomato-chili ezay like a local.

Try the salty, buttery tea that Bhutanese pour over rice for breakfast when there's some leftover.

Skip the chilies once and try kewa datshi or nakey datshi - cheese sauce is Bhutan's default vegetable move.

If offered warm ara with an egg floating in the glass, that's Losar-style hospitality, not a dare.

Circle the 12th-century temple clockwise spinning prayer wheels alongside elderly residents doing their daily round.

If visiting near New Year, watch rooftops send up juniper smoke meant to cleanse the year's negativity.

Join joggers and evening walkers along the river for Thimphu's unhurried version of a city stroll.

Locals and monks come to this hilltop viewpoint to reflect, not just photograph the giant statue.

You'll see the Fifth King's portrait everywhere - genuine affection, not decor, so keep royal jokes to yourself.

Expect the deadpan reply that Gross National Happiness just means the government's legally obligated to try.

Catch gho-clad archers aiming at targets 145 meters off, complete with singing and heckling between shots.

Look for heavy wooden darts flying in open demkhong lots during festivals - archery's scrappier cousin.

Go Friday through Sunday when village farmers fill 400 stalls with cheese, chilies and incense by the Wang Chhu.