Have you tried everything in Cannes?

Technically Marseille's dish, but locals will happily argue about who does it right over dinner.

Fresh Forville anchovies on bread with salted butter — a midmorning market snack, not a punchline.

Provence rosé flows May to October with an indiscretion that starts earlier in the day than you'd guess.

Find a zinc-counter brasserie on Rue Saint-Antoine and stay long after the plate's cleared — that's the point.

Aperitif on a Suquet terrace around 6:30–8 PM, bay and islands glowing behind your glass.

Steep Rue du Suquet rewards you with a 180-degree bay view and, on clear days, the Italian Alps.

Palace hotels one side, public beach the other — do the whole stretch, not just the postcard bit.

Ask a local what time the sun sets here — the answer is always "whenever you like, monsieur."

During festival season, Directors' Fortnight shows real films to real locals, often for free if you queue early.

"Bonjour" (bohn-ZHOOR) before anything else, even at the supermarket — skip it and you're the rude one.

The monks' island has an ancient abbey and vineyards, and a quiet that's almost jarring after the mainland.

July's open-air concerts in the old town are arguably locals' favorite festival of the year.